Posts Tagged ‘Snowdonia Climbing’

Snowdonia climbing – Hope 135m VDiff, Idwal Slabs, Ogwen, North Wales

Here’s another classic climb taken from ‘the laminated book of dreams’ (it’s not really laminated, that’s just how David and I refer to it after watching a Bill Bailey show. Bill was referring to the Argos catalogue, Dave and I are referring, of course, to Classic Rock by Ken Wilson). ‘Hope’ is a 3 star, [...]

An introduction to Welsh winter climbing

So it’s getting cold, the clocks have gone back and as a rock climber you face an interminable few months of inactivity or at best a regular incarceration inside a chalky climbing wall. A miserable prognosis I’m sure you’ll agree. That is of course unless you have the funds and inclination to hit the continent for some unseasonal sun rock and as attractive as that may sound I believe there is a better, more rewarding way to get your winter kicks and extend your climbing season to a whopping 12 months a year. Join me on a whistle stop tour of some of the exciting and accessible delights of Welsh winter climbing where we’ll be looking at some good introductory climbs up to grade II.

Climbing books reviews: Llanberis by Iwan Arfon Jones

Last year when I first visited the Llanberis Pass, I fell completely in love with the place. A visually stunning 3 mile stretch of rock climbing paradise, with routes for everyone, from beginner to expert.

This is actually the sixth edition of this climbing book. The first edition was published back in 1987. I’m not sure how many climbs are featured within, without counting them, but I can tell you it’s a lot.

Climbing book review: Scrambles & Easy Climbs in Snowdonia (Grey Stone Books)

Rather than trying to distinguish between scrambling and climbing, this book simply offers great mountain day rock expeditions. If you like easy moves on big routes, occasionally with a good measure of exposure, then read on.

Snowdonia Climbing – Cneifion Arete 130m Mod, Ogwen, North Wales

Don’t let the fact that this climb is only a moderate (or a grade 3 scramble depending on who you talk to) put you off. It keeps you involved and interested from the word go, and the exposure up the ridge is fantastic!

Snowdonia Climbing – Milestone Buttress, Ogwen – Nasty rock climbing fall

Like many sports, rock climbing carries an element of risk. When you move from indoor climbing to trad climbing outdoors that risk becomes a little greater. You hope that when gravity wins the day and you do fall off, that the protection you placed prevents you from making contact with terra firma. Unfortunately for me, last weekend I fell off, my protection failed and I made a very firm connection with the ground!

Snowdonia climbing – Llanberis Pass, Crag Ddu – Rib and Slab 79m, Vdiff

It was a warm and bright Sunday morning, but a short downpour the night before left us with a fair bit of moisture on the ground. Still recovering from my fall on Milestone Buttress the previous morning, my ribs and arm were extremely sore and as such served provided a constant, throbbing reminder of what can happen when you fall off when rock climbing. The sun appeared to be drying the rocks in the Ogwen Valley, but I still felt a little apprehension at the idea of climbing on less-than-dry rock.

Climbing book review: North Wales Rock (Ground Up)

I have been waiting for this climbing book for some time. It went out of print sometime in the last year to make way for the new, updated version, and I’m here to tell you it was well worth the wait.

Snowdonia climbing – Amphitheatre Buttress 294m VD, Ogwen, North Wales

Having climbed a few decent outdoor routes, my brother David and I were really keen to try multi-pitch climbing on something BIG! We had so far managed outdoor lead climbs up to a grade of VS, and around a 5C indoors.

David’s mates Paul and Stuart showed us a pretty easy route called Middlefell Buttress, 97m Diff at Langdale in the Lake District. The climbing was easy, but in some places exposed which made for really enjoyable climbing. Needless to say, we were hooked!

I decided to start trawling the internet for big multi-pitch climbs, and came across one or two blogs describing a climb called the Amphitheatre Buttress, in the Ogwen Valley, Wales. The pictures posted on these blogs made my jaw drop, and at 294m, it was to be out biggest climb to date (by a long way). What’s more it’s only graded as V Diff, so well within our technical ability. I told David about the climb and we started to make plans for our Snowdonia climbing expedition.

Snowdonia climbing – Flying Buttress 87m VD, Dinas y Gromlech area, North Wales

My brother David and I climbed this on the Sunday of a weekend expedition to North Wales, following an epic climb up the mighty Amphitheater Buttress on the Saturday.

Let me start by saying that there only one way to describe the walk-in to this climb… Evil! It’s actually more of a “scramble-in” (on all fours) up a super steep scree field, and will take anyone and everyone at least 30 minutes (probably more like 40 minutes). At least it starts at the roadside, there’s parking right opposite the crag, but get there early as it gets very busy.