Jamming is used where the rock features a crack in which you can jam your hand, fist, finger or in some cases forearm, rather than pulling down on a hold. In most cases you don’t actually pull down on a jam, it is used to stabilise the upper body as you push up from your legs.

Hand jamming

Hand jamming can be done thumb facing up or down. The aim is to make the jam as secure as possible. Place your hand in the crack then draw you fingers in and tuck your thumb in. This will increase the volume of your hand in the crack, creating more pressure and a more secure jam.

Fist jamming

Fist jamming relies quite heavily on the crack that you want to jam being slightly narrower than the width of your fist. Place your hand into the crack then make a fist, squeezing to make the jam secure.

Finger jamming

Finger jamming works best when there is a constriction in the crack you want to jam. Choose the correct finger for the width of the crack (usually the index or middle finger), once placed, bend your finger to make it wider and more tightly jammed. Be very careful with this technique. If your feet slip and your finger is well jammed, you will almost certainly dislocate your finger at the very least!

Happy jamming!

Climbing techniques – hand jamming is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Climbing cracks – finger and hand jamming techniques
2. Basic climbing techniques: Hand holds, the ‘jug’
3. Basic climbing techniques: Hand holds ‘Pinch’

Check out this fantastic video featuring Jay Smith climbing a fantastic crack in Moab, Utah. He demonstrates and explains hand jamming technique beautifully.

Check out how relaxed Jay is throughout the climb.

It’s really important to note the importance of foot positioning. Most of your weight should be carried by your feet.

If you climb in the UK, especially in the Peak District, you’ll appreciate how important this technique is for crags like ‘Millstone’. If you get your crack technique down, you will style the climbs that many other climbers sit out.

I for one will be practicing the hell out of this, ready to hit those cracks this summer.

Climbing cracks – finger and hand jamming techniques is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Lawrencefield – The Peak District
2. Climbing techniques – a plan to raise your game: Week 8 – Core techniques
3. Climbing book review: Eastern Grit (ROCKFAX)