Ways to Improve.
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Hello to all and sundry.
I've been going indoor bouldering for some months now and love it, but to be honest, I'm starting to become impatient with myself as I don't seem to be improving all that much. What have those with experience found to be a successful approach?
Any videos/books worth getting to help with technique, fitness, grip, flexibility and (reading problems/grades which I find perplexing at best!). I realise there is no substitute for getting off your arse and doing it, but feel a more structured approach maybe of benefit.
I'm even considering going the whole shebang and paying for an intensive course over in Llanberis or something as ultimately, my goal is to start going outdoors.
Most appreciated for any comments
Ta
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Hi fearnster, thanks for replying.
I hear what your saying. First 3 months I was going 3-4 times a week and naturally, as my strength improved, was able to ungracefully plow through stuff haha. However, work commitments have kicked in so its just once or if I'm lucky, twice a week.
These days I try to focus on my technique. I usually start warming up on easy problems, then try to go harder from there. Since my OP, I've spotted an tuesday night improvers sesh at my local which I shall be attending, happy days... -
I've also found this nugget of advice from an other forum, seems on the money. :)
[quote]
Try to climb slowly, and flow between moves - so reduce how much you jerk with your feet and hands. Place your feet deliberately, and think about your footwork, good footwork will help you push grades.
Visualise a problem before climbing it, look at the holds and the gaps between and work out how you're going to climb between them before hopping on the problem.
Downclimb everything you find easy, this will help your lockoff strength.
Train to climb, don't just climb. Jump on a pullup bar, and take a look at 10-minute workouts - Metolius had some details on their website for this if you google it.
If you're serious about getting stronger, you'll need to climb at least 3 times a week and train between.
Think 'light' and 'smooth' when you're climbing.
If you can, do attend a training class as it will help - but the best help you can get is to train with someone - training with someone better than you will help you push your grade - but having someone at your level will make you competitve and try harder and more bolder moves.
The biggest tip is to climb outside. Real rock is a sure fire way to get stronger and to open your mind - climbing by colours is good for training, but when you go outside you'll be overwhelmed with the choice for feet, smears and poor holds.
Grab yourself a guide and spend a week in the peak, north wales, lakes, just climbing stuff - or get yourself down to Font and be spolit for choice.
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Hi Flynn,
When you start climbing your biggest gains will be based around technique improvements. The best place is to do this outdoors. When I started climbing I only had a pair of rock boots. Just went and bouldered on grtistone. When it came to leading I found that my foot work was really good and let my first E1 2 months later
Being outside forces you to use good technique, especially on gritstone. Its almost like solving a puzzle. You work out the way to do somthing and move your feet and body in the right way to get up it. The more you do, the better your balance, technique and memory for moves will become.
A course is certainly worth doing to learn how to place gear etc, but technique mainly comes with practice.
Couple this with bouldering/leading indoors and you will make great improvements
Cheers
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