RCUK Forum

...forgot to mention. While climbing 'Right Hand Route' I had some idiot sat at the foot of the route telling his son in graphic detail about how someone had fallen off said route the previous year, smashed in head on the rock and died. He managed to spend my entire ascent talking about falling off, injuries and death.

Suppose it gave me a chance to practice my focus!

Hey up, well it just so happens that my performance mind coaching workshops are happening again on the 1st/2nd October at Harrogate and Manchester - inc a session about combating a fear of falling... :) btw that arse at the bottom of your route wasnt exactly helpful - hope you had a word!

I might just come along mate. I think it definitely slows me down.

Didn't get chance of a word, by the time our kid had seconded the route he was gone (probably disappointed that nobody fell off) :L

I'd have smashed him in the face. Or maybe I wouldn't. Not good for psyche though eh?! :-q

Good ways to grow your nuts...? Start off easy & gain confidence gradually.

I've learned through climbing with LOTS of hard, bold climbers, that it's not really about being 'super brave' or 'not being scared' ... it's a confidence in your ability. If you know (I mean, really know) that you can cruise a route, then you will.

Even the super strong boys get sh*t scared on routes, these are generally super hard routes, and they get scared because a small part of their brain is whispering (very quietly), you might not be able to do this ... that's when it can all go wrong (it's then down to how strong their head is...and being able to shut that whisper up) or they pull it out of the bag.

When you watch vids of the likes of Alex Honnold soloing he is COMPLETELY confident in his ability, that's why he carries it off so cooly.

Watch this video: http://climbingnarc.com/2008/12/video-george-ullrich-gaia-e8-6c-flash-attempt/

This was when a couple of my mates had a trip down to The Roaches for a go on Gaia in 2008, George wanted to flash it.

Now George has the biggest balls I've ever known (how wrong that sounds). He is one of the most calm and collected people I have ever climbed with (and there have been a lot), he is super confident in his ability to 'pull it off' and barely ever doubts himself. From hard sport sends, to soloing, he knows what he can do...and he bloody well does it.

In the video he absolutely cruises the bottom section and you can actually see the moment that his head goes to rat-shit (the whisper has it's gag removed). Somewhere, the voice (that is usually silent) says, "ey up George, you might not be able to do this, and if you fall off, you're f*cked" ... this is the bit where he says 'this is it now innit' ... I'll let you find out the rest yourself.

I think I have made my point...questions?

That's a cracking piece of video Liam. You're absolutely right. It feels great when you manage to silence that voice in your head and remain cool near your limit.