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Climbing cracks – finger and hand jamming techniques

Climbing Techniques | Gareth Hanson | February 3, 2010 10:17 pm

Hand and finger jamming is an essential technique for anyone serious about rock climbing.

Check out this fantastic video featuring Jay Smith climbing a fantastic crack in Moab, Utah. He demonstrates and explains hand jamming technique beautifully.

Check out how relaxed Jay is throughout the climb.

It’s really important to note the importance of foot positioning. Most of your weight should be carried by your feet.

If you climb in the UK, especially in the Peak District, you’ll appreciate how important this technique is for crags like ‘Millstone’. If you get your crack technique down, you will style the climbs that many other climbers sit out.

I for one will be practicing the hell out of this, ready to hit those cracks this summer.

It's good to share!

Written by Gareth Hanson

Gareth Hanson is a hugely enthusiastic climber and the editor of Rock Climbing UK (this very website!), an online rock climbing magazine for UK climbers. Check out RCUK's Twitter account here.

See all posts by Gareth Hanson.

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  • David Hanson

    awsome video very stylish climbing ,he didn,t protect it very well though don,t think i,d be that brave !!!!!

  • Bryony

    Um, where are his ropes?! Did he free climb that or have my eyes deceived me? Well impressed!

  • http://rockclimbinguk.co.uk Gareth Hanson

    Hi Bryony,

    He is roped but his first piece of gear goes in very high up!

    Quality technique huh!

    G