Archive for the ‘Climbing routes & crags’ category

A place to share your route experiences (without giving too much away for readers wanting to claim on-sight ascents). If you have climbing routes or crags you would like to tell us about, email: gareth(at)rockclimbinguk.co.uk

Inspiration on all levels

Here at RCUK we like you to see the best quality climbing videos available. Whether it be famous climbers, famous routes, excellent editing or an inspiring story, we choose the videos because we enjoy them and we hope that you will too. The video below is a short one from DPM, a climbing website/magazine based [...]

Winter Trips for UK Climbers – Scotland or Abroad?

Every year British ice climbers face a dilemma. Where to go for that one big trip- Scotland or further afield? Some might choose the Lakes or Snowdonia for a quick jaunt if conditions are good but it’s almost impossible to predict what English and Welsh ice will be like in advance, or even if there [...]

It’s all just too easy …

… or so it would seem for the on-form Jordan Buys at present. Flashes of various E7′s & E8′s not to mention a ground-up attempt (resulting in a ground fall) on the grit test piece The Promise E9 7a are common-place for him at the moment. His tick-list is impressive to say the least. One [...]

Winter Climbing – Little Stanger Gill, A Lakeland Classic

Seeing as it’s starting to turn cold, we thought it might be nice to get you ice heads revved up about the upcoming winter climbing season. This is my account of Little Stanger Gill from last season. There I was dozing off on my sofa, after finishing off the remainder of the plate full of [...]

Birkett Opens Winter Line on Bowderstone?!

Dave Birkett has excelled himself again by making another first ascent of one the most famous previously unclimbed winter lines in the world. The video below shows the Cumbrian Stone Mason putting his biceps to good use and sending the longstanding winter project Without Rime or Reason at the internationally renowned bouldering venue … The [...]

Mescalito goes free…?

“I climb for the long, difficult journeys that have little chance of success but teach me the most. I climb to be in the environment that makes me feel like anything is possible. I climb to push myself to the limit of my physical and mental abilities, so that I can discover what I am [...]

You Don’t Need to be Steve Mcclure to Set a New Trad Route

A couple of weeks ago I arranged to head out for some climbing with Craig, a friend of mine who I met on Twitter last year sometime (@activemindcoach – good follow suggestion for those of you into Twitter). We threw a few ideas about for a trad session, but then Craig came up with the [...]

A Massive Dartmoor Midsummer Challenge – Guest Post by Dominic Jeff

Fed up with the shortness of the routes on Dartmoor, Dominic Jeff and Jerome Taylor decided to make the most of their local crags by stringing them all together in one mammoth Midsummer challenge. FOR the second time that day the wind tried to tear me off the rock as I enjoyed the hand jams [...]

James McHaffie Sends The Big Bang 9a, Lower Pen Trwyn, North Wales

Check out this video by Chris Doyle. James McHaffie, sponsored by Wild Country and Red Chilli talks us through this historic second ascent of The Big Bang, 9a on Lower Pen Trwyn, North Wales. This route has waited 15 years for a successful ascent, and has fought off attempts from both Jerry Moffat and Ben [...]

The Roaches, An Atmospheric And Challenging Gem

I’ll start this review by explaining that I’ve done nowhere near the level of outdoor climbing this season that I had hoped to have. This will hopefully go some way to explain why a day at The Roaches resulted for us in such a low number of climbs at low grades. That’s my excuse anyway! [...]