Moon Board at Awesome Walls, Stoke on Trent

I have been in need of adding some new holds to my board for a while, to allow me to start to create some new and harder problems.

After looking around I decided to try the Moon School Room holds set. A single set costs £100, which includes 40 handholds and 10 footholds. This represents much better value for money than most other resin holds.

These holds were originally designed for the Moon Board. This was a concept that was created by Ben Moon and others, from the old school room in Sheffield, in 2005. The idea was that people could create an exact replica of the board used by top climbers such as Ben and try and repeat the problems they had set. Once they then move onto creating their own problems, they could then upload them for others to try. To enable them to achieve this, the Moon board has a grid pattern, with each hole assigned a letter and number, as well as each hand hold having a number and orientation.

Sadly I just don’t have room for a Moon Board in my garage! However the ones I have tried are excellent. I really like the grid pattern as it enables me to measure my progress and then push myself by creating problems that use the next row of holds.

The Yellow Original Moon Holds

There are three different sets, available within the Moon range. Having used all three at Awesome Walls in Stoke on Trent, I have gone for the original version as they are generally smaller than the other two sets. I have fitted these to my 45 degree board. Any steeper and I may well have gone for one of the other two sets, which offer a broader range of hold sizes.

The hand holds and foot holds all have multiple faces, allowing you to turn the holds around. Great if you need to make that problem, just a little bit harder! The texture of the holds is perfect, generally not to abrasive on your skin, but at the same time offering enough grip to avoid slipping off. The holds are generally open hand or crimps, with a few small pinches and undercuts. They are easily the closest, resin hold, you can get to climbing on UK limestone.

For those of you looking at adding an extra set of holds to your board, for getting yourself in shape for hitting the limestone, the Moon School Holds are the way forward. If you have lots of room, then go one better and build yourself a Moon board!

Moon Original School Holds is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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1. New ROKT climbing gym planning approved
2. Basic climbing techniques: Hand holds, the ‘jug’
3. Climbing techniques – a plan to raise your game: Week 5 – strength conditioning and grip (workout 2)

Last winter Hot Aches and Mountain Equipment released a great film called The Pinnacle. It shows two top modern climbers (Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner) recreating a series of pioneering ascents on Ben Nevis by Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith in 1960. The film makes you realise how extraordinary the first ascensionists were, climbing grade five ice routes using traditional techniques including cutting steps.

Thankfully it’s a lot easier nowadays! Modern ice axes and crampons feel more like natural extensions of your limbs than the cumbersome tools of past decades. Everything has got lighter and easier to use which has accelerated standards of ice climbing for the elite and beginner alike. In 1960 Marshall and Smith made the first ever one-day ascent of Point Five Gully. Today that route is a mid-grade classic accessible to many winter climbers – so much so that avoiding queues can be a challenge!  These routes aren’t getting any less steep; it’s just that the equipment has got an awful lot better.

Following last month’s look at clothing for winter climbing, this article gives a brief overview of the different climbing gear and other equipment you’ll need.

Climbing Gear

Ice Axe(s)

For relatively shallow snow gullies (grade I) a single mountaineering axe will suffice. The classic option is a Grivel Munro but you may appreciate a slightly curved upper shaft as found on the Black Diamond Venom. The curve makes it more effective when swung from the handle, but the straight lower shaft can be plunged in deeper snow.  As you progress to grade II or above you will need a pair of technical axes. The Grivel Matrix Light is a great option for these lower grade mountaineering routes. When you begin tackling grade IV and above a more radical curve becomes useful for clearing icy bulges and getting a more ergonomic swing. The Petzl Quark and Black Diamond Viper are both top technical tools that will perform superbly on all types of winter climb.

Crampons

It’s essential that crampons are fitted only to stiffened boots (often referred to as B1, B2 or B3 following a ratings system devised by the mountaineer Brian Hall). Fitting a stiff crampon onto a flexible boot could lead to the crampon falling off mid-climb which would be disastrous. For more information visit http://www.ellis-brigham.com/mountain-footwear.htm#crampons or go to a store for advice.

Ice climbing becomes far easier when using crampons with vertical front points. If you have good B3 rated mountain boots like the La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX a pair of Grivel G14 Cramp-o-Matic will work well. For a combination of mid-grade ice and mixed climbing along with general winter mountaineering or Munro bagging, the Grivel G12 is a good choice.  Ideally fit them to B2 boots like the Scarpa Manta using the New-Matic binding. If you’re winter walking and not climbing above about grade I, you should be fine with B1 boots and a C1 crampon like the Grivel G10 New Classic. Of course, the more flexible the boot, the less support they will give you when front-pointing on steeper snow and ice.

Other climbing gear

Wear a beefy harness that will fit over your thicker winter clothing, with lots of space for racking an expanded winter rack and preferably water-resistant materials.  The Black Diamond Aspect and Lotus are ideal.  Although you could wear the superlight style of helmet (such as the Petzl Meteor III+) on winter climbs, a more robust polycarbonate shell is better placed to protect you from persistent falling ice.  These slightly heavier helmets, including the Grivel Salamander, also tend to be less ventilated and so are less likely to allow melting water or spindrift to drip through.

You will need a full rack including nuts, hexes, extenders and plenty of screwgate krabs for building belays. Many climbers find that slightly larger karabiners like the DMM Spectre 2 make more sense in winter, as they can be easier to use when wearing gloves than the smaller styles like the DMM Phantom.

Of course ice routes also demand ice screws. They may be expensive but it’s well worth getting ones with a retractable handle for speedier placements. Black Diamond Express screws are the ones to beat at the moment, but Grivel 360s also have a loyal following. There are some other specialist bits of kit which may be worth a look.  Foremost among these is the Grivel Candela which is well worth taking. It’s a lightweight plastic body with a flip-out hook that makes it easier to get cord through an Abolokov V-thread and even includes a low-profile blade for cutting the cord. Also do consider carrying a small selection of pegs.  Many climbs already have decent pegs at strategic points but you never know when you may need to hammer one in yourself!

Pack

Winter climbing usually involves packing a lot of kit. On the walk in to a route you might be hefting a rope, crampons, axes, hardware, spare clothing, lunch…  It all adds up so your pack needs to carry everything comfortably.  Then when you start climbing it needs to morph into a simple design that won’t impede you.  This means that winter packs tread a fine line between bells-and-whistles functionality and super-clean minimalism.   A good example is the Lowe Alpine Alpine Attack 45:55.  It’s built in tough ripstop fabric with a low-profile hipbelt but it still has enough functionality to carry rope, crampon and tools with ease.  The Osprey Variant 52 is a more elaborate option that I’ve used on multi-day camps below the North Face of Ben Nevis.  It will carry a lot of kit and then compress down small for the climb.

Map & Compass

It’s a good idea to carry a detailed map when you head up the mountain, not only to help find the route but also to get back down afterwards!  Places like Ben Nevis pose navigational challenges for the unwary and in poor weather it’s necessary to plot a careful dog-leg course across the summit plateau or risk falling through the cornices around the top of Gardyloo Gully.  The standard map is the Ordnance Survey Explorer 392 but you can also get Harvey’s 1:12,500 detailed map of Ben Nevis for greater detail.  The best compass for the job is probably the Silva Expedition which is a tried-and-testing design with a nice long base-plate.

Guidebook

In Scotland it’s often best to be able to move with the conditions, choosing to spend a couple of days in the Cairngorms or on the Ben depending on the weather.   For a multi-base trip the ideal guidebook is the SMC’s Scottish Winter Climbs which has all the classics across the country.  For comprehensive coverage of particular areas the Cicerone guides are hard to beat.  They have guides to Ben Nevis & Glen Coe, the Cairngorms, the Lake District and North Wales.

Other Essentials

A good headtorch is a must.  The simple lamps are fine for the campsite but when you’re walking in to a route before dawn, the more powerful your torch, the better.  The Petzl Myo RXP is probably the best of the bunch at the moment.  The other essential safety gear includes a survival bag and whistle.  Last but not least – gaiters!  They’re not cool, but they are practical.  They keep out the snow so socks and boots stay dry, as well as protecting expensive waterproofs or softshell trousers from getting ripped by misplaced crampon kicks!

Enjoy your winter climbing and don’t forget to check the Sport Scotland Avalanche Information Service and Mountain Weather Information Service for detailed conditions reports and weather forecasts before you head out on the hill.

Equipment for Winter Climbing is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Best boots for mixed winter climbing in the UK
2. Climbing equipment review: Mammut Haute Route Pants
3. Black Diamond Reinvent the Auto-Locking Carabiner

Aonach Eagach in Winter

At last there’s been major snow in the Highlands! The raw weather of the last 10 days has meant big accumulations in all the climbing areas and although at the time of writing the avalanche hazard is rated Considerable, the forecast is for a good freeze-thaw cycle to settle a more stable snowpack for an excellent season of winter climbing.

So snow and ice are once again transforming the British mountains into a paradise of cold climbs. The hills have assumed an Alpine grandeur and have become more exciting and much more serious.  Spindrift pouring down gullys, the threat of avalanche and howling gales are all part of the experience but it pays to be prepared with the right kit to cope with harsh conditions. This article will run through the essential clothing necessary to face the unique challenges of winter climbing.

The Layering System

For decades now, mountaineers have used a layering system to provide versatile protection in the mountains. Each layer of clothing has a separate function and when used together they provide comfort across a broad range of conditions. It’s essential to get this right for the stop-start nature of winter climbing, where you can get very hot on long walk-ins to the base of a route and then get very (very) cold while belaying.

Baselayers

If sweat stays close to your skin it will cool rapidly when you stop and this cooling effect is exacerbated when you’re on a freezing belay! For this reason a baselayer needs to transport moisture away from your skin to keep you dry.  For winter merino wool is great and a midweight option like the Icebreaker Bodyfit 260 Tech Top makes sense. Alternatively check out the Arc’teryx Phase AR which is one of the best synthetic designs available and my ‘go-to’ baselayer.

Fleece

Women’s Mountain Equipment Shroud Jacket in Pacific Blue

As with your baselayer, a fleece needs to be breathable so it allows sweat generated on the walk in to evaporate out. Of course, it also needs to keep you warm.  It’s hard to beat Polartec Power Stretch which gives a nice combination of breathable warmth along with good stretch, so it feels nimble rather than cumbersome. The ME Shroud Jacket is a classic combination of 100 weight microfleece with Power Stretch panels and hood and is a really good option for Scottish Winter.  If you feel the cold you may prefer a heavier weight fleece like the Haglöfs Isogon which uses Polartec Thermal Pro. However you will feel the heat on the walk in!

Hard Shell

There is a wide range of excellent, high-performance fabrics on the market from tried and tested GORE-TEX to the new kids on the block, Polartec NeoShell and Mountain Hardwear’s Dry.Q Elite. They share common characteristics; fully waterproof, windproof and protective against lashing rain and winds that blow you sideways.  Choose a jacket made from any of these fabrics and you won’t be disappointed, so choosing one comes down to the particular fit and function of an individual jacket.  I love the Arc’teryx Beta AR; it’s cut fantastically well giving good shoulder mobility without jacket lift when you’re swinging axes overhead. The new Rab Stretch Neo jacket melds their design nous with the new NeoShell fabric for a true UK mountain jacket with the full-on roomy hood, massive pockets and good coverage you’d expect from Rab. The Mountain Hardwear Drystein jacket is a really interesting alternative.  It uses softshell side panels to boost breathability and mobility with proper hardshell Dry.Q fabric across the hood, shoulders and torso. It’s a specialist piece that could be just the job for winter.

Softshell

Haglofs Fang Jacket

In favourable conditions softshell makes so much sense. The combination of breathability and weather resistance gives you a really versatile solution that can perform fantastically on winter climbs.  The Mountain Equipment Shield Jacket has all the features you’d expect in a top end shell and uses a hybrid of GORE Windstopper and Power Shield softshell. The Haglöfs Fang W/S Jacket uses the same GORE Windstopper softshell fabric to keep you comfortable in damp windy weather.  These are excellent mountain jackets but remember that seams are not taped, which means that hard rain can get through. If the forecast is for a storm you might be better off with a full waterproof shell!

Insulation

When it gets seriously cold, it’s great to have a lofty layer of insulation waiting to throw on.  Down has the best warmth to weight ratio, is very light and compresses easily. Pieces like Rab’s Neutrino Endurance Jacket give full-on warmth.  However, if it gets wet down becomes a very poor insulator, clumping into one heavy sodden mass. So for Scottish Winter it’s far more practical to use synthetic insulation which will still keep you warm even if it gets wet. The Mountain Equipment Fitzroy and Haglöfs Barrier 2 Hoody are excellent belay jackets that perform well in the damp cold of the Highlands.

Trousers

Womens Five Point Pant by The North Face

Softshell trousers give you good levels of weather resistance, stretch and breathability for use in marginal conditions. I use TNF Apex Trekking Pants all year round but for something more technical check out the Mountain Equipment G2 Ultimate Mountain Pants (in GORE Windstopper Soft Shell). If you expect rain it might be safer to layer up with standard trekking trousers and hardshell overtrousers, such as the TNF Point Five Pant or Rab Stretch Neo Pant.

Gloves

Keeping the extremities warm isn’t easy. Snow has an insidious way of soaking anything exposed to it, and gloves in particular will wet out very easily.  Even those with a GORE-TEX lining will be wet by the end of the day, because whenever you hold something icy or wet the pressure forces water through the fabric’s pores.  For this reason it’s a good plan to take a spare pair of gloves in your pack. Arc’teryx Alpha SV Gloves are the most technically advanced on the market but they will be overkill for many people!  One versatile options is to wear Extremities Thinny gloves under a more substantial pair like the Mountain Equipment Couloir GTX.  For ice climbing dexterity is important, particularly when placing ice screws. Simple Mountain Equipment Touch Grip gloves are Power Stretch with a grippy silicone palm and they work great for climbing as long as you’re prepared to risk getting chilly fingers for the length of the pitch! As for the head, well most beanies will do the job! Of course there are more specialist options; check out the The North Face Power Stretch Ninja Balaclava for full face protection or their Granite Cap for a warm and waterproof option.

Enjoy your winter climbing and don’t forget to check the SportScotland Avalanche Information Service and Mountain Weather Information Service for detailed conditions reports and weather forecasts before you head out on the hill.

Clothing for Winter Climbing is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Climbing equipment review – Marmot ROM Jacket
2. Climbing equipment review: Mammut Stratus Flash Jacket
3. StoneMonkey Adrenaline Jacket

ProBalm 28g Puck

If like me, your leisure activities are tough on your skin you need to treat yourself to some skin repair. Climbing and bouldering can be particularly brutal. I’m sure you’ve all had those sessions where you feel like you left most of the skin from your fingertips on the wall.

I know the guys from ProBalm, and I remember a conversation with one of the directors earlier this year where he told me that he had met a really clever herbalist and together they had decided to develop a new hand repair balm for active people. Fast forward 6 months and the finished product has landed.

ProBalm is an all-natural product, hand made in the UK. It also uses locally sourced materials, where possible. And there’s some interesting stuff in there:

• Cera Alba (beeswax) – Locally Sourced
• Simmondsta Chenesis Seed Oil
• Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil (Grape Seed Oil)
• Prunus Amygdalus Oil (Almond Oil)
• Symphytum (Comfrey)
• Officinalis Leaf Extract (Garden Sage)
• Citrus Aurantium Amara Oil (Bitter Orange Oil)
• Pogostemon Oil (Patchouli Oil)
• Citrus Reticulata Peel Oil (Tangerine Oil)
• Piper Nigrum (Black Pepper)
• Fruit Oil
• Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf Oil (Also Known as Italian Tuscan)
• Styrax Tonkinesis Resin Oil
• Mixed Tocopherols

So what’s it like?

It currently comes in a 28g puck shape. You just rub the puck against your skin and it leaves a slightly oily, waxy residue.

Like most repair balms, you’ll either love or hate the smell. I actually find it really pleasant.

It takes a while to work its way into the skin, so I find it’s best to apply a good coating before bed, so when you wake up the following day, your skin is mended.

At £7.99 for a 28g puck, ProBalm represents good value for money.

If you fancy treating your hands, you can order online direct from the ProBalm web site.

ProBalm For Skin Repair is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Rock climbing training – Toughening and repairing your fingers part 2
2. Repairing hand & finger skin damage from climbing – Climber’s Balm review
3. Post Climbing Finger Repair – Joshua Tree Climbing Salve

What Merrell say about the Outbound Gore-Tex® Jacket

Waterproof, breathable technical performance that’s ready to hike ridgelines and push ahead, the supple Gore-Tex® shell keeps you dry and high on style points.

Technology:

• Gore-Tex® Performance Shell waterproof breathable fabric keeps you dry and comfortable

Fabric:

• 100% polyester
• 10,000 mm / 10,000 g/m2 / 24hr
• DWR finish

• Fully seam sealed
• Mesh lined with body mapped back panel for warmth
• Dual chest pockets
• Attached hood with dual adjustablity
• Hook and loop adjustable cuffs
• Drawcord hem
• Waterproof contrasting zippers

A closer look

The Outbound Jacket is a lightweight, waterproof shell. It is lined, but if it’s really cold you’ll need to layer up. So far I’ve only managed to test it in temperatures as low as 5ºC. I wore a t-shirt and hoody underneath and found myself a bit too warm, so it does provide more insulation than first appearances might suggest.

It’s very well put together and features welded seams, water-proof zips and ventilation zips under the armpits. The contrasting colour zips look very stylish.

Based on it’s outward appearance you might be forgiven for thinking that the Outbound is a ski / snowboard jacket. Only the lack of an internal powder skirt gives the game away. In my view, even as a hiking jacket, it should have one anyway. April 2010, walking off the Sub Cneifion Arete I found myself inadvertently stepping into waist deep snow on several occassions, proving you don’t have to be snowboarding deep powder to encounter deep snow. To be fair the jacket does have an elasticated bottom, but a powder skirt would be better.

The hood has a peak and is big enough to go over a helmet (just). This is a hiking jacket, not a climbing or ski/snowboard jacket, but if you do plan to use it for any of those…

The zippers are pretty easy to operate, but could maybe do with slightly bigger tags for doing up whilst wearing gloves.

The outbound Jacket is machine washable at 30º

Summary

The Outbound Jacket is a super-stylish, technical hiking jacket with excellent waterproofing properties. In my opinion, just a few minor changes would broaden it’s potential usage for those of us that enjoy hiking, climbing and snowboarding. Meaning we could get away with buying just one jacket.

The Outbound Jacket is available in 3 colours:

• Lava (Red)
• Black
• Michigan (the picture I have looks blue)

They all feature a contrasting zipper colour.

It’s available in sizes from S to XXL

The RRP is £220. As soon as they become available, I’ll post a link. In the meantime, you might want to take a closer look at some of the other great products Merrell have to offer.

Merrell Outbound Gore-Tex® Jacket is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Climbing equipment review – Marmot ROM Jacket
2. Merrell Moab Mid Gore-Tex® Boots
3. StoneMonkey Adrenaline Jacket

Stonemonkey Adrenaline Jacket

You may have read my recent review of the Dinas Supersnug Hoody from one of my new favourite clothing brands, StoneMonkey. I promised you a review of the Adrenaline Jacket too, so here it is.

What StoneMonkey say about the Adrenaline Jacket

Men’s warm windcheater jacket With ¼ zip fastening and drawstring hood to keep heat in. Snug Sherpa fleece lined with loose fit and raglan sleeve to give room for layering. Elastic waist and sleeve hem to keep body snug. Single vertical chest pocket and twin pockets on waist, all zip fastening and tonal circle Climbing Man logo embroidery detail on cuff.

A closer look

The Adrenaline Jacket is almost ridiculously cosy. It’s perfect to throw on between problems or single-pitch ascents, or for those long belay sessions, when the weather is cold.

The outer fabric is a bit of a surprise, it’s difficult to show in pictures on the web. It’s got a kind of sheen to it. It looks great! The jacket has 2 side pockets with zips and a chest pocket with a zip, so you can stash your car keys, money etc.

Seriously cosy

Like the Dinas Hoody we tested, the Adrenaline Jacket is beautifully made and features excellent attention to detail; things like the climbing man logo stitched into the cuff in grey, and in colour next to the waist pocket.

When we tested it on a November day, bouldering up at Stanage North in the Peak, we found it almost too warm. But to be fair, the weather was unusually mild. It works better than a regular jacket as something you can just throw on in between problems without having to faff about with zips.

Summary

The Adrenaline Jacket is a super cosy hoody style jacket, perfect for single pitch, or bouldering crag days.

If you fancy one, it costs £92 and is available direct from StoneMonkey.

StoneMonkey Adrenaline Jacket is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. StoneMonkey Dinas SuperSnug Hoody
2. Climbing equipment review – Marmot ROM Jacket
3. Climbing equipment review: Mammut Stratus Flash Jacket

Century Crack at Canyonlands – photo credit National Geographic

Wild Country Helium Friend
Many of you will have heard of the Wideboyz’ exploits climbing the hardest cracks in the USA, culminating in the astonishing Century Crack – all accomplished with new Helium Friends.  The design has been refined from three decades of experience.  You get the traditional single axle design with a thumb loop and bit of extra reach for deep placements.  They’re a joy to use.

Black Diamond Gridlock Karabiner
Ingenious.  The Gridlock uses a single piece curved gate to encapsulate your harness belay plate and prevent cross loading when belaying.  It’s a Eureka moment and proves effortless and practical in use.  Suitable for use with any belay plate, it’s guaranteed to see constant action.

Arc’teryx C80 Chalk Bag
This is the Rolls Royce of chalk bags.  It’s a classy design with plenty of room to chalk up and made from Schoeller softshell fabric – just on another level from the competition.  (Don’t forget the chalk to go inside!  A Rock Technologies 60g chalk ball is ideal.)

Snow!
OK, maybe you can’t give this as a present but any winter mountaineer would be glad if there was snow in the Highlands this Christmas.  Many climbing and walking clubs will be travelling up to Fort William and Aviemore to see in the New Year with ascents on Ben Nevis or the Northern Coires.  Fingers crossed for good conditions this season!

Suunto Core Anniversary Edition
When hill fog blots out the landscape, you can rely on a Suunto Core to keep you on the right track!  Accurate altimeter, barometer and compass modes give you a range of tools to get out of tricky situations.  This 75th anniversary model packs all that functionality into a good-looking package that will cut a dash on and off the mountain.

Petzl Tikka XP2
Petzl Tikka head torches give out good light from a very compact housing.  The XP2 kicks out 60 lumens and throws a beam up to 60 metres.  Used on its lower settings you can get a massive 160 hours of battery life.  This little head torch gives fantastic power to the pound and it’s ideal to keep stashed in your pocket in case of benightment on a long route in the winter months.

Osprey Mutant 38
This is an awesome pack for all round use, from the simple day out at Stanage to a full on alpine route.  38 litres is the perfect size and when you’ve packed it to the hilt the Mutant gives a surprisingly comfortable carry in such a lightweight and streamlined bag.

Smartwool TML Mid Half Zip
Thermal Mid Layer garments have a unique structure that Smartwool call ‘Hi-Fi’.  There’s merino wool inside next to the skin, which has wicking properties, low odour retention and generally great comfort.  Outside you get a Nylon face for durability and win resistance.  It’s a great combination for just about any winter sport.

Rab Microlight Jacket
Rab’s Microlight series is becoming increasingly popular and with very good reason – they’re a superlight wonder for cold weather.  It has a Pertex Microlight outer with narrow channel baffles which stabilise lofty 750 fill power goose down inside.  The result is excellent warmth for weight, way beyond what’s offered by a similar weight of fleece.  It’s a great option for cold conditions at the crag or layered under a shell on a winter climb.

Ice Climbing Vouchers
And if you can’t make it to Scotland there is an alternative!  Check out the Vertical Chill ice climbing walls in the heart of London and Manchester.  Made of real ice and rising two stories high, the ice walls are an opportunity to experience ice climbing for the first time and also great for experienced ice climbers looking to do some more specific training before making the trip north.

Christmas Gifts For Climbers is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. How To: Indoor Climbing and Training
2. Wild Country Helium Carabiner Review
3. The New Petzl GriGri2 – Full Review

Merrell Moab Mid Boots

If you’re after a lightweight, comfortable, breathable, waterproof hiking shoe then read on.

What Merrell say about the Moab Mid Gore-Tex®

A breath of fresh air never looked so good or performed so well. Get the versatility your various exploits demand
without losing your cool in this collection, which features an integrated mesh upper for ventilation. Hot weather has truly met its match.

UPPER/LINING

• Waterproof Dura leather and mesh upper
• Bellows tongue keeps debris out
• Synthetic leather toe cap and heel counter
• GORE-TEX® Performance Comfort Footwear lining protects feet and keeps them dry
• Breathable mesh lining treated with Aegis® Antimicrobial solution maintains foot comfort
• Ortholite® Anatomical Footbed

MIDSOLE/OUTSOLE

• Molded nylon arch shank
• Compression molded EVA footframe provides cushioning
• Merrell® air cushion in the heel absorbs shock and adds stability
• 5mm Sole lug depth
• Vibram® Multi-Sport Sole/TC5+ Rubber
• UK Men’s Sizes: 7-13 full sizes only
• EUROPE Men’s Sizes: 40-49
• Weight: 15.5oz (439g)

A closer look

Nice and grippy

The Moab Mid is stylish and well put together. The Dura leather and mesh upper is extremely breathable and keeps your feet from sweating.

I ordered a size 8 (my usual size) and found that they fit perfectly straight out of the box. They’re extremely comfortable and lightweight. I haven’t walked more than 10 miles at a time in them yet, but I have absolutely no doubt that I could walk all day in them without problems. And this is without any kind of ‘bedding in’.

I wore them for a day in the peak and spent some time scrambling over damp gritstone. They performed rather well considering they’re not really designed for climbing.

It was on my regular dog walking route that I stumbled across a test for the waterproofing. I happened to cross a field with very wet grass (about 3” long) wearing a pair of Converse All Stars trainers (I know, not the brightest move). In less than a minute my feet were squelching, completely wet through. I headed home and changed into the Moab Mid Boots for a second try. This time my feet remained perfectly dry, and I spent a good 15 minutes dragging them around, trying to get some water through. Pretty good considering the how breathable they are!

A good looking set of boots

Summary

These are not a technical climbing boot. They’re not B rated and won’t take a crampon. What they are is an excellent, lightweight hiking boot. They’re a perfect approach shoe, and I’ll certainly be wearing mine for summer mountain days, for; approach, scrambling and descending.

The Moab Mid Gore-Tex® Boots are available in 4 different colours:

• Dark Earth
• Walnut
• Beluga (featured in this review)
• Black

They’re available for both men and women.

If you fancy a pair, they cost £110 and you can buy them direct from Merrell.com.

Merrell Moab Mid Gore-Tex® Boots is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Best boots for mixed winter climbing in the UK
2. Which boots are best for mixed winter climbing in the UK?
3. Climbing equipment review – Mammut Ultimate Hoody

Rob Lonsdale clearly enjoying the Dinas Hoody

I was browsing the web a few weeks ago and came across a brand that caught my eye. StoneMonkey are a clothing and accessory brand aimed squarely at the adventure market.

I hadn’t really noticed StoneMonkey before so I foolishly assumed they were new. Not so, the brand has actually been around since 1994, how did I miss them?! The thing that caught my eye, and something which StoneMonkey pride themselves on is their attention to detail and build quality. everything is tested to destruction by people that like to play out.

I’m now the proud owner of 2 pieces from the StoneMonkey collection: The Dinas Supersnug Hoody and The Adrenaline Jacket (review to follow)

What StoneMonkey say about the Dinas Supersnug Hoody

Quality pullover hood by Stone Monkey. 85% supersoft peached cotton giving the ultimate in luxury and comfort. Snug fit with large waffle lined hood, chunky drawstring, kangaroo pocket and raw seam detail giving a lived-in feel and never take off quality. Stone Monkey heritage year 94 vintage appliqué graphic on the front

Looking good for an clean send

A closer look

The peached cotton is super soft. It feels really cosy to wear, perfect for Autumn days, bouldering at chilly crags. The attention to detail is really impressive, with imaginative use of texture inside the hood. I really liked the rough edges on the seams and the lettering on the front.

It’s machine washable at 40º, which is pretty essential for something you might wear for climbing or bouldering.

We took the hoody up to the Stanage North, in the Peak for a spot of bouldering, on a November’s day. Admittedly it was pretty mild weather, but the hoody felt really cosy over a t-shirt and made for some stylish photographs. What more could you want from an autumn bouldering top?

Summary

Concentrate...

This is a super stylish hoody, which is equally at home on a crag day as it is on a trip to the pub with your mates.

It’s available in grey marl (pictured in this review), or Chalked Black. If the ’94’ graphic on the Dinas isn’t your thing, take a look at the other hoodies in the StoneMonkey range.

At £69.00, this isn’t the cheapest of hoodies, but the quality is excellent and you won’t find every man and his dog wearing the same one, which certainly can’t be said for some other brands.

If you fancy one, you can buy direct from StoneMonkey.

StoneMonkey Dinas SuperSnug Hoody is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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No, my work place doesn’t look like this either. Not fair, is it

Vancouver’s North Shore, where mountains flank the ocean, is the place to be for people who want to play outside. Leaving the view behind, once you’re inside you realise that Arc’teryx is filled with people like that; the bike room is packed to the ceiling with road bikes, mountain bikes, commuter bikes and every variation thereof. There are pictures of employees out in the waters nearby, paddling and sailing. In the winter, Arc’teryx’s media manager Jo tells me, lunch breaks often turn into an opportunity to head up the nearest hill for a session on the ski slopes or a hike with snow shoes. And if it’s raining or snowing outside (this is Canada, after all), there’s an indoor bouldering room to get you away from the desk.

Every product is rigourously field tested by the staff

So it makes sense that every product they produce is tested by their staff, lovingly tweaked after being put through its paces. Anyone who has owned an Arc’teryx product will recognise the quality levels that the company achieves, and it all becomes clear once you realise that anything less than perfect will mean that designers have to answer to cold, wet or unhappy colleagues.

The second thing you realise about Arc’teryx is that their high standards in production can also be found in everything else they do. Want the best photography of your products? Build a photographic studio in house, and employ a top notch team. What about making sure the manufacturing’s up to scratch? Well, even in these outsourced days, Arc’teryx maintain a manufacturing site in Vancouver, allowing them to pilot new ideas quickly and enabling them to make sure that the most specialised jobs are done by those with the best craft skills. Even the IT system they use has been crafted to meet their precise needs. I find myself wondering if this is what it’s like within Apple: sure, the products aren’t the cheapest on the market, but everything is beautifully designed, and it just works.

Like Apple, Arc’teryx recognise and connect with their community, the people who are out at the crag, on the slopes or on the hills. The company are exploring how best to engage using social media, to share stories of their athletes, and have a direct connection with their users. And beyond the swishy website and the nice photos, Arc’teryx support a range of creative endeavours, such as The Season (previously reviewed here on Rock Climbing UK, currently midway through its second series), and the environmentally aware ski film from Sherpas Cinema, (worth checking out that jaw-dropping trailer below if you can spare six minutes).

The Season’s second series features a familiar mix of climbers, bikers and outdoors adventurers. One story is that of Thomasina Pidgeon. Canada’s top female boulderer, she lives an archetypal ‘dirtbag’ lifestyle, sleeping in her van, following the good weather around North America. But behind the stereotype, Thomasina is also mother to a cute five year old girl called Cedar, who travels with her. While the short films show her working on a problem in Squamish, BC (The Method), they also show that the mental skills Thomasina uses to unlock bouldering problems are also put to good use resolving how to balance her passion for climbing and her responsibility as a parent.

When I chatted to Laura, Arc’teryx’s athlete programme manager, she told me that Thomasina’s situation isn’t unusual: “We’ve got athletes who are parents, who have careers, who are science teachers. It’s all about working with people who connect with us, and who have great personalities”. Although Thomasina’s achievements dwarf anything I’m ever going to achieve on rock, Arc’teryx have deliberately chosen to work with athletes who have got more in common with the average weekend warriors, who have to juggle their other commitments to make time to be outside.

It’s clear to me, from even a short visit to their HQ, that it is the people within Arc’teryx that make it a special place to work. The whole building buzzes with enthusiasm for what they’re doing, and with that view from the car park, it’s no wonder they feel inspired to keep improving their tools for playing outdoors. Arc’teryx show that you don’t have to compromise your ethos to be successful, and that’s a gratifying lesson for anyone.

Big thanks to Jo Salamon and Laura Fergusson at Arc’teryx for showing me around and taking the time to chat with me, and to Jojo Cook at Soulsports for putting me in touch with them.

Arc’teryx – Probably The Best Workplace In The World! is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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